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Trend consultation: MoOD forecasts 'Transition'

Traditionally, the MoOD trend consultation session has always taken place at the beginning of December. 15 trend specialists representing 8 different countries, ranging from as far away as Australia and as close to home as the Netherlands, made their inspiring forecasts for 2013/14.

A number of social trends were highlighted in virtually every presentation: honesty, homeliness, provocation, light and hope. 'Transition' was far and away the key word that featured most frequently. Transition indicates that there is change in the air. And everyone is sufficiently convinced that change is inevitable. There are signs of change in abundance, led by the protest movements and changes in consumer behaviour. Strangely enough, though, little mention was made of 'ecology'.

This tends to show that producing things (more) ecologically will become an acquired right and underlines that ecology is too valuable a commodity to be downgraded by becoming a marketing slogan.

More colour and sharp contrasts

Colour is the main aim for a number of sectors that are determined to acquaint us with a particular new colour. Fashion and cars are two well-known examples of this. But whether or not a colour will genuinely make a breakthrough into the mass market depends on the social support it gains and as you can see from above, that support can sometimes be contradictory.

This inner conflict was immediately visible from the composition of the colour palette. Not only were there fairylike, transparent colours, but stark protest colours also made an appearance and heavy, dark mood boards ensured there was an enthralling colour story to tell at the MoOD consultation session. But there was one thing that everyone agreed on: we are heading towards more colour and sharp contrasts.

The MoOD visual: as colourful as the trend itself

The visual for MoOD 2012 has now seen the light of day. Cheerful colours in a rainbow of hues and shades reflect the predictions of the colour trends. The aim of MoOD is to send out a clear-cut signal with this striking and positive picture. Colour will play an important role at MoOD 2012. That much is very clear.

MoOD has a new look

As you can see, the MoOD website has been given a whole new look. It's a sign that MoOD is ready for the next show. The predominant colour is blue, showing how you can use colour to look towards the future. And blue is very much the colour we prefer to use when we express our future in colour.

Blue and white, in fact, because our future doesn't want to be besmirched with impure tones and shades. Blue and white are also the colours of innovation. But this is only the tip of the iceberg. Stay with us and you'll learn a whole lot more. Meanwhile you can still consult our Innovation Platform & Blue Drop catalogue.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

2011 is nearly over. Working with you, MoOD organised a compact, but highly effective show that was much appreciated by visitors and exhibitors alike. Thank you all for that. We are now looking forward to the New Year and are hard at work to create a better future. We wish you a very merry Christmas and a New Year filled with happiness and prosperity.

The most beautiful innovation came from Nelen & Delbeke

Nelen&Delbeke's entry was met with a rapt response from the jury. "Creative, innovative and very beautiful" said Axel Enthoven. "Nelen&Delbeke is known for very fine fabrics," Prof. Van Parys added, "and this really is a strong innovation".

Design CMJUG2/03 does indeed combine innovation with beauty. The play of light picks out a subtle design that interweaves in the fabric. MoOD asked the designers to explain. Thierry Delbeke: "It is really high-tech weaving because we're working with 22 decitex. This is finer than hair. We had to adapt the loom to achieve this. An excellent collaboration with Picanol and BONAS made it possible, but it certainly wasn't easy."

The fabric is available on order in different colours and patterns. You can find further information to the MoOD Innovation Platform catalogue here. The product is also available for the contract market.

Nelen & Delbeke

Watercolours and natural yarns from contract specialist Dina Vanelli

Viscose, cotton and linen are the ingredients in the watercolour fabrics of Dina Vanelli. They can be used for window coverings and upholstery. Dina Vanelli created the design in its own studio.

It was developed as part of the new 'Linen by Vanelli' collection. The watercolours, along with indigo, fall into the label's 'Indigo' category. Two of the designs were selected for the Blue Drop awards. Some of the fabrics have a brush effect finish. Vanelli concurs that this collection has been particularly successful and it will therefore continue with this theme in 2012.

Dina Vanelli

Carbi.Pel breaks into the accessories market

Biolo Grazia is the woman behind the imaginative designs of Carbi.Pel. Using laser cutting, shaving and printing, this Italian company creates fun, completely original designs in cow hide.

So it's not surprising that the handbag market, among others, found its way to the Carbi.Pel stand. Handbags, agendas and accessories are excellent platforms for extravagance and Carbi.Pel does extravagance like no other.

Carbi.Pel

Fidivi Tessitura Vergnano in peak condition for the highest contract requirements

Fidivi Tessitura Vergnano SpA is a highly regarded specialist in the Italian contract market. At MoOD, it had a booth beside Trevira and the former duly noted the rising trend of the contract market. There is particular interest for technical products such as thermoforming and electro-welding.

Thermofolding is a process whereby heat is used to form layered fabrics into a shape. Electro-welding blends different fabrics according to the required application. These processes mould fabrics into permanent shapes. They increase comfort and make this fabric rather exclusive due to the exciting 3D graphics that occur.

Fidivi Tessitura Vergano SpA

CELC – Masters of Linen shows knitted voile for the contract market

As a MoOD partner and linen promoter, every year CELC goes in search of a strong linen product. This year, the choice fell on a beautiful, lightweight, contract-quality knitted voile. An unusual choice, as although knitting with linen is already well established in the fashion industry, it remains very uncommon in interior decoration.

It isn't surprising then that it is CELC that supports this innovation, as the company is active in fashion as well as interiors. This cross-pollination is inspiring and new technologies make it possible to offer knitted linen as window coverings.

The linen of this Blue Drop winning product is from locally-grown European flax without irrigation and with low use of pesticides or fertilisers. It is manufactured in 100% pure linen and is flame resistant: UNI 8456: Category 1; DIN 4102/B1.

CELC - Masters of Linen

Thinking out of the box delivers the best innovation – Hyosung

Prof. Marc Van Parys is a member of the jury for the MoOD Innovation Platform. The judging, and especially the judging of the Blue Drop Award for Innovation, does not usually happen overnight. In September, however, for a change the jury was unanimous: the creation of the South Korean company Hyosung is simply a masterpiece.

It's a window treatment that can be used in two modes (see photo) and is ready to use right off the loom. So it has the strings for mounting and everything. At a first glance, this product looks ready-made. Prof. Marc Van Parys didn't waste any time in having this work of art screened in the laboratory. "This shows a serious amount of research," says Filip Ghekiere, "and there's a lot of creativity behind it". Hyosung is a company committed to R&D. The results are testimony to this dedication.

Hyosung Corporation

Outdoor in acrylic, soft as a baby's bottom – Torri Lana

Acrylic has a high reputation to uphold in the outdoor textile market. It's a product with no equal: weather resistant and unsurpassed in terms of lightfastness. Now Torri Lana's design shows us how amazingly soft acrylic can be.

The outdoor setting at MoOD was the perfect proof of this. The design, superior and timeless, can be used on either traditional furniture or on highly contemporary designs. Torri Lana also came out with a brilliant, sophisticated presentation for the trade fair.

Torri Lana 1885 srl

Hand printed linen for the contract market – De Kabels Amsterdam

"After MoOD we were very pleasantly surprised by the amount of attention we received!" says Rob Viool, who was just as surprised by receiving the highest distinction in the contract market: the Blue Drop Contract Award.

'Square' is a very heavy linen, hand printed with black paint. Over this is a transparent film. This gives a 'worn' effect, with the texture and natural colour of the linen remaining visible. The company was deluged with orders and is now busy coming up with a successor to 'Square'.

De Kabels Amsterdam BV

Velvet designed on the loom – De Poortere Frères

Few people realise how technical velvet is as a fabric. Plain velvet is particularly difficult to make. The slightest error is visible. A crack in a bobbin? A differently coloured thread? You see it immediately. De Poortere's core business lies in partially dyed polyester velvets, a discipline in which creativity is often subservient to technical limitations.

But not at De Poortere. The company's quest for innovations in structure and depth results in the play of slub yarns in the warp and weft. Slub yarns are fancy yarns with thick and thin sections and are almost never used in the warp because they make it very fragile. And yet the designers had the courage to use it. By also using it in the weft, you get a very special effect that is further accentuated with a black weft that doesn't change the colour during the dyeing proces. Experts know what has gone into it. The Blue Drop jury was stunned.

De Poortere Frères sa

Story of a conception – Flemish Masters do what no one else can

Axel Enthoven, the project leader and driving force behind Flemish Masters, led the quest himself for a soft, comfortable self supporting fabric that would significantly improve comfort. He hoped to find the solution from a Belgian specialist in flocking.

The stakes were very high as Ferrari had previously failed to achieve this. After 9 years of research, Axel Enthoven took over the challenge and brought it with him to Flemish Masters. The project was initially difficult and threatened to flounder. Until Flocart came on board. In just a few days time, they achieved what Ferrari couldn't in 9 years.

"The self supporting fabric is soft and comfortable to sit on, even on a warm day when you're wearing few clothes", explains Thierry Outtier, driving force behind the project that he has finalised together with furniture manufacturer Joli. Furthermore, it meets all standards for outdoor use: it is colourfast, lightfast, rot-proof and stain resistant. Flocart has now filed a patent application and is rightly proud of the creation that would never have been without Flemish Masters.

Flocart NV

MoOD: more exclusive and more specialised than ever

It was made abundantly clear at the latest edition of MoOD (13th - 15th September 2011, Brussels Expo): anyone who wants to launch their own collection – or wants to develop one – simply has to be at display at MoOD. The decision-makers who visited MoOD this year didn't come in greater numbers, but they did come with a more precise sourcing focus.

Editeurs, wholesalers, furniture manufacturers and young, dynamic companies (all hunting for textile products with an own special look) were not only well represented, but they also went home very happy. That much can be gleaned from the visitor survey, as well as from informal conversations conducted in the aisles at the show.

Without exception, the exhibitors at MoOD are at the top of the production chain and that is something our visitors know better than anyone. Our exhibitors are also working with the world's best textile designers and enjoy the recognition of some of the biggest brand names that belong at the very top of the tree. Add their technical weaving know-how, their versatility and nose for innovation and you realise just how important MoOD is for everyone.

Strong entries for the Blue Drop awards

In what turned out to be a marathon sitting, just before the opening of the show, the Blue Drop Jury went and collected the entries from the stands. Here and there exhibitors provided some additional words of explanation about the fabrics that they had made ready for the judging panel.

During the selection process that ensued immediately afterwards, it quickly became clear that the quality of the entries was at unprecedented levels. It also became an enthralling judging session that resulted in 7 well-deserved Blue Drop Awards. Marc Geysen, a member of the jury for some years now, put it this way: "The quality of the entries is higher than in previous years. MoOD is more compact now, but has become a lot more powerful."

Martine Gyselbrecht, also on the judging panel last year as chairman, is in a good position to make comparisons: "Beauty was the theme of the trend book and that was undoubtedly what we saw here." Johan Vandamme, textile engineer and a new member of the panel was surprised by the quality of the entries: "For me it was a very special discovery," he admitted.

In the meantime, it appears that the Blue Drops have become very much in demand in terms of recognition. It's a good way of standing out from the others in the marketplace, too, if the approach of Blue Drop Award winner Konrad Hornschuh is anything to go by.

Click here to view the full overview.

Missed the guided tours? Pity!

What started life as something of a try-out turned into one of the success stories of the show. Guided tours were conducted three times a day, setting out from the Belgian Café, next to the trend zone. Our guides led visitors entirely on a no-obligation basis right through the show and its projects.

Of course as a visitor you can go and see these projects on your own easily enough. But the added value of doing it on a guided tour seemed to be irreplaceable. Even for regular visitors … and exhibitors! In particular the tours generated a whole host of interesting and inspiring stories. Such as the story of Flocart, which has succeeded in softening a heavy-duty outdoor fabric with a flock that displays all of the qualities of outdoor materials. How all that came about and how this small creative player managed to do in barely 48 hours what others have been unable to achieve in 9 years, was one of the great tales of these tours. Or how it is that some creations have barely been on display for five minutes before they are snapped up by decision-makers who know exactly what they are looking for. Or the story of the American man who waxed lyrical to the camera about all of his purchases, but then afterwards did everything he could to stop the conversation from being published. On closer inspection, it seems he didn't want to reveal his sources. And then we haven't even mentioned the little inventive pearls which are proof of material knowledge and ingenious creativity. So for these and so many other reasons, it was a pity if you missed out on these tours. But rest assured, there's every chance that they'll be doing the rounds again next year: 100% in fact!

MoOD through the eyes of a visitor

"MoOD is much more than just a fair", says miss Saelens. It was the very first time she visited the fair. "I was glad there were guided tours. Thanks to these I didn't get lost and moreover got to know the inside story in a very short period of time."

"My impression of this fair? It is based on a very good concept and devotes attention to special initiatives, such as the innovation platform. MoOD connects the products that can be seen on the fair and the materials, which is a good thing. What I also like very much is the initiative of the Blue Drops and the awards. These really highlight the things that matter and that make the connection with the latest trends."

Never seen before!

The number of 'firsts' or 'premières' at MoOD was greater than ever. Premières are entire collections or individual fabrics that have never been displayed before at any other show. They are either specially designed for MoOD, or else MoOD has been chosen as the strategic launch platform. And this year there were amazing numbers of them.

Which speaks volumes about the creativity of the exhibitors at MoOD – and naturally also about the importance that they attach to the people who visit the show. The jury found some of these 'firsts' so innovative that they were whisked straight up to the Innovation Platform. These included work from Textiles de France, Bruvatex, Reisoglu, Nachik, Saros, De Kabels, Lameirinho and Nelen & Delbeke, to name but a few. All of these examples of creativity were on show for the first time at MoOD and very much deserved the attention lavished on them. But only one could go home with the Blue Drop Award for the Best Première: the much-feted introduction of the world's first biodegradable leather from Hulshof Royal Dutch Tanneries.

Blue Drop Awards 2011: overview

An overview of the award winners plus the motivation of the Blue Drop jury. The winners are Deltracon (BE), De Poortere Frères (BE), Konrad Hornschuch AG (DE), De Kabels (NL),Torri Lana, Hulshof Royal Dutch Tanneries (NL) and Hyosung (South Korea).

For an overview of All Blue Drop Labels & Winners visit the Blue Drop catalogue.

Download this article with images as a pdf document

Best Window Covering
Deltracon (BE)
Hall 7 – Booth D11

This window covering in 100% linen was selected by the jury for its subtle print in indigo, which is produced so elegantly that it looks as though it is done by hand. The repetition of the pattern is barely noticeable. The quality is both superior and luxurious.

Best Upholstery
De Poortere Frères (BE)
Hall 11 – Booth C10

This fabric was chosen on account of its ingenious weaving technique that produces a very special visual effect. In particular, a slub yarn is woven into the pile and there is also a slub in the weft. This combination creates a relief that visually looks even deeper because the slub in the weft is black. The fabric is not merely a technical stand-out, but is also rich and of great quality.

Best Wall Covering
Konrad Hornschuch AG (DE)
Hall 11 – Booth D14 – E15

When it is used as a wall covering, this bio-synthetic leather creates a very special effect. It looks just like real animal hide, but in actual fact is an imaginative imitation that makes high demands on the printing technique used. But for all that, there is no denying that Konrad Hornschuch is particularly good when it comes to manufacturing sustainably. The product is also well suited both to the residential and contract markets. The combination of these elements has resulted in a well-deserved Blue Drop Award.

Best Contract product
De Kabels (NL)
Hall 11 – Booth A52

It calls itself one of the last companies that does silkscreen printing entirely by hand – which is pretty remarkable for a product suited to the contract market. De Kabels opted for linen on account of this material’s natural qualities. The natural colour of the linen has been retained and black was chosen for the overprint. An unusual and daring choice.

Best Outdoor product
Torri Lana 1885
Hall 11 – Booth A47

The jury made the award both to this fabric itself, as well as to the overall concept design for this outdoor acrylic material. Its soft touch is exceptional for solution-dyed acrylic, while the design is timeless and harmonious, not to mention highly contemporary. Torri Lana also created a very carefully thought-through presentation for this collection, which very appropriately is called ‘Dehors’ – or ‘Outdoors’.

Best Première
Hulshof Royal Dutch Tanneries (NL)
Hall 11 – Booth D56

The first genuinely organic leather in the world. This Dutch tannery examined all of the harmful substances used during the tanning process and replaced them with organic products. The result is the first ecologically manufactured leather that is totally biodegradable.

Best Innovation
Hyosung (South Korea)
Hall 9 – Booth C32

The jury was unanimous about this particularly innovative achievement. This window covering is woven as a single piece on the loom, meaning that the system is ready to be hung immediately. It can be used in two positions: in the open position and in the closed position, which lets in more light. Ingenious and never seen before, in the jury’s opinion.

Blue Drop Awards: and the winners are...

Seven exhibitors reacted very surprised when they saw us enter their stand. Most of the time, the reaction was one of disbelief and surprise: “Did we really win the Award? You must be joking!” One by one, these products are proof of the innovating power that is still in the world of upholstery fabrics, window coverings and wall coverings today. The organisation congratulates all of the winners and all of the contenders with their prizes and/or nominations. After all, whoever makes it to the last 50 is a winner anyway.

Best Window Covering: Deltracon
Impressions of my hometown Flanders

Deltracon inspired itself for the award winning window covering in 100% linen by the Flemish painter Leon Spilliaert and by typical Flemish elements such as the sea, the sky, cobble stones, the rawness ... The theme of ‘ceramics’ was added to the subtle inkjet prints. The colour variation gives a rather cold impression. Kathleen and Rudy Delchambre: “The available colours really ‘breathe’ Flanders: indigo blue, brown and grey and beige for the quality in voile. We want to emphasize that production outside Europe is not a must. The local story is important for us, because sustainability, quality and delivery terms are more certified. We are really happy to win this award.”

Best Upholstery: De Poortere Frères
Ingenious weaving technique

This fabric has been elected because of the ingenious weaving technique resulting in a very special visual effect. Marnix Ghesquière, commercial manager: “We tried to integrate a slub yarn not only in the weft, but also in the warp. An extra dimension is reached by using a black weft yarn that is not overpainted. This production process is really unique, because you get almost four dimensions here. The colours are plain dyed and the special effect is most visible in the light tones such as beige, lime, silver grey, green-brown, carmine, delft blue ... The product is most suited as upholstery fabric and mainly aims at the residential market.”

Best Wall Covering: Konrad Hornschuch
Printed animal hide looking real

This synthetic leather creates a very special result as wall covering. It looks like animal hide, but all is being printed. “We used the high quality skai Sanimalo material with a subdued tone-on-tone coat pattern”, says Bruno Lehmann, head of the Business Unit Fashion. “The natural haptics emphasizes the coat character of the material. It is available in five colours: wolf grey, cowbrown, blackbear, buffalo and camel. It can be used as wall covering, upholstery, decoration, cushions, head boards ... There is also an FR-quality that meets all European standards, given the fact that our main business is the contract market. Till now, the response we had is very satisfactory.”

Best Contract Product: De Kabels
Linen structure reflected in black print

De Kabels from Almere (The Netherlands) operates in the high end contract market. Nevertheless it is one of the last companies using the manual screen printing technique. Michèle and Rob Viool: “In the fabric ‘Square’, the natural colour of the linen has been maintained. We used a black print in which the structure of the linen is being reflected. This can only be done by hand, not by machines. The look of the linen fabric is both classic and modern. The print is also available upon silk and wool with a matt silver finish. These qualities are also very popular. We got our inspiration out of flax garbage with the same look and transferred this to the fabric.”

Best Outdoor Product: Torri Lana
As elegant and comfortable as living indoors

Torri Lana from Italy presents at MoOD its new outdoor fabric design collection DEHORS. Owners Massimo Belotti and Luca Carrara and stylist Laura Gazzaniga: “The innovative style, modern design and smooth touch make living outdoors as elegant and comfortable as living indoors. The fabrics are 100% solution dyed acrylic to guarantee maximum resistance to sunlight and bad weather conditions. The colours are bright and fresh thanks to the combination of frisè, mouline and double twisted yarn structures. There are eight different colours and nine different structures, which can all be combined.”

Best Innovation: Hyosung
Window covering woven in one piece

The jury was unanimous about this special innovative achievement by the South Korean company Hyosung. The main reason is that this window covering is being woven in one piece upon the weaving machine. “That is why Band 1, made of 100% polyester, can be installed immediately upon the window”, explain Hong Gi Lee and Hee Jin Cha. “It can be used in two positions, open and closed, and be pulled up at the same time. We were inspired by the old Korean tradition of wooden doors, which is re-enacted in this product. Band 1 is also 100% pvc-free and thus a completely eco-friendly window covering. It is meant to use in hotels, but also at home. We are really very proud of this award!”

Best Première: Hulshof Royal Dutch Tanneries
The first genuinely organic leather

Hulshof Royal Dutch Tanneries presents at MoOD 2011 the first genuinely organic leather in the world: ‘Puro’. “We are specialising in bullhides for furniture, automobile, aviation and leather goods”, testifies Herman Hulshof. “We examined all of the non-sustainable chemicals in the tanning process and replaced them by natural components such as leaves and fruit. We are extremely proud about this achievement. Our condition for success was that within a foreseeable period, the leather had to be converted into compost. All of the tests demonstrate that Puro meets that requirement. Of course we are happy to claim that we are the first nature-friendly tannery in the world.”

Flemish Masters: Where textile & furniture meet

Belgian, and more specifically Flemish companies, are not largely recognised as team players. Rather, they’re individualists with strong personalities. As such, Flemish Masters’ idea of bringing together the furniture sector and textile companies and challenging them to work together on common projects is indeed unique.

Five partnerships have been formed, a cooperation between a textile manufacturer and a furniture producer. And in one of these five projects a third player has also joined up. After two years of preparation MoOD ‘Meet only Original Designs’, the Furniture Fair Brussels, Optimo and Fedustria proudly present the textiles, furniture and objects that the participating companies have developed together, simultaneously and in perfect harmony. The first public presentation will take place at MoOD and during the Furniture Fair Brussels 2011.

My thanks go to the manufacturers who gave their trust to this project; to MoOD, the Furniture Fair Brussels, Optimo and Fedustria that took the initiative; and to my colleagues of the think tank, Inge Van Gheel, Siegrid Demyttenaere and Marc Geysen.

Axel Enthoven - Enthoven Associates Design Consultants
President Flemish Masters think tank

Flemish Masters is organised by:

www.furniturefairbrussels.be / www.optimo.be / www.fedustria.be

For Flemish Masters 2011 five objects are realised:

Download the catalogue with all details here as a pdf file.

Or click here for the image gallery

Sleepsitting by Recor Bedding NV - Deslee Clama

Aragon Collection by Passe-Partout NV - Beaulieu Fabrics NV

Interplan Chairs by De Zetel NV - HSH Aerospace Finishes - Concordia Textiles NV

Touché by Joli - Flocart N.V.

Many Floors by Drisag NV – Orotex Belgium NV

The Flemish Masters think tank consists of:

Axel Enthoven (EADC)
Inge Van Gheel (Design Studio Inge Van Gheel) Siegrid Demyttenaere (DAMn°) Maxime Szyf (MAXIMALdesign) Marc Geysen (©-Desk Design Consultancy)
Flemish Masters is organised by MoOD – Meet only Original Designs – in cooperation with Optimo; Fedustria and Meubelbeurs Brussels.

Première:
From 13 till 15 September during MoOD - Meet only Original Designs – in Brussels Expo